Wednesday, August 11, 2010

Islands and Highlands 4

From Seahouses and the Farne Islands I headed up to Dunbar for a trip out to Bass Rock the following morning. Arriving at the harbour I recognised several other faces - clearly the Farne Islands -Bass Rock circuit is developing! The aim was a boat trip out, to feed some Bass Rock gannets on the way, and hopefully, weather permitting, to land on the Rock.

The weather was reasonably kind (although it clouded over as the morning passed), a few birds came to feed at the boat (the fishing has been good this year, so the gulls outnumbered the gannets significantly, but it was still a treat to see them hit the water so near), and the spectacle of the Rock came nearer.

The largest gannet colony in the world, from a distance the birds provide a dusting on the bare rock.

Access when we landed was as high as the ruined chapel can see just above the lighthouse, and the birds were just phenomenal. These are big birds, but they are at your feet, all around you - the sound, the smell - quite breathtaking. In fact there are so many photography was tricky - always a bit of another bird in the way!

I feel I rarely get my best shots on the first visit to a venue - I'm still too green at this game, and need to look back at the snaps and consider what to do better next time, but here I only had the one chance. In hindsight I spent too long trying for some flight shots - it's not the best venue light-wise, and with the wind direction as it was the birds were flying in from the sun, tending to cast shadow on the head. Still in the end I got some snaps I was happy with.

I should probably have spent a bit more time on the nesting birds, but got some nice views of parents with chicks of all ages,

of the parents together (very easy to anthropomorphise here - sorry Brian - but there has to be some element of affection here surely).....

including the bill-fencing greeting as one of the pair returned ........

and the 'sky pointing' a bird would do just before take off.

Not all was peace and quiet though. Two birds started a scrap, then more joined in and the mud was soon flying before the target bird managed a get-away. I presume it had ventured into the wrong territory, but suspect it won't make the same mistake again.

I previously commented on the brightly coloured mouths of various seabirds. Not so the gannets - but just look at the size of that gob!



Inevitably gannet fever took over. I should have spent more time on the herring gulls also nesting on the Rock - like I say next time I'll do better.

It was a good trip, and a great experience, but it's not cheap and you need to be lucky with the wind and light if you are going to get the really best views - especially flight shots. I took way too many pictures as usual, but if you want to see some more, or just better views of these shots, click HERE and look at the latest pictures album.

Friday, August 06, 2010

Islands and Highlands 3

The trip to Northumberland was mainly about the Farne Islands, but the boats return late afternoon, the sun is up a good few hours before they set off and the Sunday trip was cancelled due to high winds, so we had time to have a look around.
The first evening was about more than looking around. Some advice. If you head up that way at the weekend book accommodation ahead! Saturday evening was spent around Seahouses, Beadnall Bay, Bamburgh and Alnwick searching for somewhere to stay. In the end Kay and the internet were roped in, and we finally sorted out a place in Seahouses - but not a proper B&B, just a kindly soul who sometimes took 'overflow'!
On the Sunday the weather wasn't great. We wandered down to the harbour at Seahouses and spent a few hours trying to snap gannets flying down the coast from Bass Rock, skimming the waves. Not great snaps, and more gannets to come in due course, but you can see how they hugged the sea.
I never got my rock pipit shot, but a pair of quite confiding dunlin were a bonus, especially as the sun came out and lit the seaweed too.
In the evening we headed for the reserve along the beach from Beadnall to see the terns, but never actually got there. First we were hijacked into snapping a few swallows that were using the wind that tracked along the sand dunes to hunt. At times they were held stationary as they flew into the strong winds enabling some unusual opportunities to catch them in flight. Several times they flew by at head height (I was kneeling) just a couple of feet away - never thought I'd miss a swallow in flight shot as it was too close to focus. These were the best of my efforts. Have a look at a larger version on the 'latest pictures' web album HERE
I did manage to snap one tern though. This is a heavy crop, but it still looks small. That's because it's a little tern.
Monday morning saw an early start, and the Seahouses headland brought a Grady, some kittiwakes, fulmars and a meadow pipit lit by the warm sun.
In the harbour the female eider duck had a few ducklings in tow. No males around, but as they were already in eclipse plumage this was no real loss.
Monday evening I was off to Dunbar .............. but that's another post. A few more shots of most of these birds on the web album - just use the link above or to the right.

Tuesday, August 03, 2010

Islands and Highlands 2 - The Farnes

Pulling into the harbour car park at Seahouses on the Northumberland coast proved a relief on two counts. First a chance to stretch my legs and get some fresh sea air after the long drive from South Wales via a 2.5 hour sleep in Rotherham on the way up. More important was the sight of good weather boding well for a run out to the Farne Isalnds. Buoyed by the Red Bull now flowing through my veins life was looking good.
This hadn't been the plan. I knew I wasn't going to get away early on the Friday night, so I'd decided to tootle my way up on Saturday, then out to the islands on Sunday and Monday. However Chris Grady had headed up on Thursday and relayed the news that the boatmen were wondering about the prospects of getting out over the weekend given the predicted winds. The forecast for Saturday looked ok, hence the overnight run, via Kay's folks.
Historically the Farnes are perhaps best known as the site of the lighthouse where Grace Darling rowed her boat to save some drowning sailors. There's still a lighthouse there, but now the islands seem to make the news because of the opportunities they offer for superb views of nesting seabirds.
Visits are controlled so that one island (Staple) is open in the morning and then Inner Farne in the afternoon, the aim being to minimise the disturbance to the birds. Boat trips include 'all day' trips to both islands, and these were the ones we went for - along with all the other birding paparazzi. If one of those boats went down the insurers would have to bump up the premiums to cover all those lenses.
Although the islands are busier now than when I last went some years ago they still offer a brilliant experience. You get off the boat on Staple straight into a puffin roost, whereas on Inner Farne it's the fun of being dive-bombed by arctic terns, whilst their youngsters scrabble around your feet.
You can get caught up in this and almost neglect the other birds - shags, guillemots, razorbills, sandwich terns, kittiwakes - but you shouldn't, despite the desire to just get that decent puffin flight shot (and no I didn't get it!). Many people missed the ringed plover nesting right next to the path near the jetty, walking straight past - too much to see to be able to look.
Day 2 saw the wind pick up as expected so we were diverted to a landbound day - more of that to come - but we did get out again on the Monday, albeit with a delayed landing on Staple, round the back door, and a heavier dose of cloud.
As I said in the first of these posts I won't laden the blog with dozens of pictures - you can look at the image galleries via the link on the right, but I've included a few more to whet your appetite.

Points of note:
- seabirds seem to have vividly coloured oral mucous membranes (ooh, err missus). Orange for razorbills, red for kittiwakes, yellow for puffins. Why?

- puffins can hold multiple fish like sandeels at the one time. you can see how the jaw hinge is wide to allow for this, but how do they catch them all?

- the puffins run the gauntlet of black-headed or lesser black backed gulls when they come in with their catch, being mobbed or even unceremoniously dumped upside down, but it was amazing how many kept most if not all their catch despite this. Sometimes they would just dive into the nearest burrow to appear cautiously a few minutes later, check the coast was clear and sprint to their own.

- Shags are pretty in close up. Their chicks are from your nightmares!

- terns are fun to watch but tricky to get lit well (must buy a flash) - and I do wish there was some microchip device that prevented the bling having to be used. It really spoils the line of those legs, and I can't yet bring myself to start trying to photoshop the rings out.
- watch where you sit on the boat when the weather is choppy. On our second trip out we were threequarters of the way out when a wave broke fully over a couple on the back corner of the boat. They only had light rain gear on and were pretty soggy. Heading from Staple to Inner Farne they stayed in the same spot - at least they were heading in the opposite direction. Sadly the sea is a fickle master, and incredibly the same thing happened to the same couple in the same spot. No-one else, just them. On the final leg, the trip back to Seahouses they shifted to the other side. You've guessed it. Another drenching, and I got a fit of the giggles. Like a kid. Couldn't stop. They didn't see, fortunately, but I just couldn't help it. Thank God the wind and spray meant my hood was up and my head tucked down. [In the unlikely event you're reading this I'm sorry, although I have to say you both took the drenchings surprisingly well. But seriously you must have pissed off Neptune in a big way some time in the past].
Last point aside - go there. It's great, even if you're not into photography. That's my say on the Farnes over. And I even resisted the temptation to mention the auks and Mordor.

Sunday, August 01, 2010

Islands and Highlands 1

It's been a while since my last post, but I can only plead memory problems as the cause. Not that I have forgotten to post, but a trip away left me with so many gigabytes of pictures to sort through that at times it's seemed almost overwhelming!
To those who follow a range of blogs like myself the increasing popularity of the Farne Islands and Bass Rock to folks with wildlife photography as a hobby is all too evident, so I'll post the majority of the pictures on the web album and just a proportion here to illustrate a tale of hits and misses, near-drownings (on board!), grey, grey skies and as Rich Steel so aptly described it 'puffin fever'.

We have cute

cheeky

romantic

action

and horror.

It doesn't end there, with glimpses of Scottish pipers and flying fish.

More to come over the next week - and apologies to those who have seen enough seabirds elsewhere recently to last them a lifetime!